Sunday, 15 December 2013

Asking for Direction

I couldn't decide which way to go. Up or down?  I wasn't lost, but I wasn't sure which way to go either.

Regardless, I was on the side of a steep hill, beside a mud hut, and beneath the welcome shade of some banana trees.  The inviting downhill track had petered out into a warren of narrow ledges between banana plants,  sorghum fields, mud huts and startled chickens.  I was four hours into a Sunday afternoon ride and it was now time to get back.
A short ride from town
Not only was I hungry, but I also wanted to avoid the looming thunderstorm and curtain of equatorial night that was soon to fall at 6pm.


A different ride requiring some transport
my riding buddy's bike
 Resigned to the fact that now was not a good time to get lost,  I shouldered my bike and retreated back up the steep track.  I chose the path I knew rather than push a route I wasn't sure would work, but if it did, would have made for a cool outing.

It's an analogy of course.  That bike ride and the life I lead here.  Something thoughtful happens each day it seems.  Unheralded, something sad, something maddening, something startling, something ugly, something encouraging, and somethings beautiful unfold before me.  I suppose this happens to some degree to everyone everyday everywhere. I find these events are more apparent here though - it is as if I have momentarily set-aside my telescopic lens of habit & home.  My view on the landscape is now seen through a wide-angle lens and situations and images careen uncontrollably into my field of view.

I haul my bike past a barefoot young woman. She has a baby on her back, a pile of scavenged firewood on her head and is listening to Rumba music on her mobile phone.

There is a similar girl who tends the cobblestone street near our house. Every day she is on the road.  Her job is to use a small length of iron bar to clear the grass from between the cobbles. I recently watched a crappy two-stroke motorbike taxi, spewing exhaust, chug by her. The passenger was carrying a fridge and the motorbike engine strained at the effort. So focused was the girl on the fridge transfer, that she only just managed to leap out of the way of a red Mercedes.  The sleek sedan sped away over the clean cobblestones, oblivious to all of us on the roadway.

I'm not lost in the ED, but I sure the hell don't know where I am sometimes.

Coming to understand the cases, the resources, the expectations and the realities has been a challenge.

As the only ED (and fledgling at that) in this low-income country, we are relatively well-supplied. We have nurses, we have workable drugs, we have stretchers, we have housekeeping staff, we have intubation equipment, we have an ED ultrasound machine, we have an ICU (often full), we sometimes have running water, we usually have a CT scanner, we almost always have power, we sometimes have bedsheets, we never have paper-towels, we often have soap, we can't measure electrolytes,  our ECG machine is broken, there are no infusion pumps, and we don't have ventilators.  There is no social worker, no clinical coordinator, no discharge planner, no hand clinic, no cath-lab, no stroke team, no clinical pharmacist, and no trauma team.  There is a limited medical insurance plan, mutuelles de sante, that doesn't cover nearly enough. If you can't pay for the meds, for the imaging, for the treatment, you don't get it. Unless you are dying and get into room 9.  Then if you survive your subsequent hospital stay, you stay to pay your bill later. We have a large room at the end of the ED hallway ironically called "Serena Ward." Here patients stay under guard. They are "cured" but have yet to pay their hospital bill. A relative has gone home to the countryside to borrow or raise money by selling some land, or a cow, or perhaps a bicycle.  The patients sit and wait amongst a colourful cacophony of packages, belongings, and hangers-on.  The view from the window of this room looks over to the fanciest Hotel in Kigali, The Serena. The room's namesake.  The Serena Hotel never runs out of paper towels....

It is the inevitable daily case of an avoidable death that pushes me off my map.  Today it was a 7 year-old girl who was burned in her bed from a candle alighting her mosquito net.  After 4 days in a district hospital, she was transferred to CHUK ED in septic shock.  Too late to catch up on fluid and infection, it was a long code before she died.  How to push for the provision of basic emergency care upfront, care that would likely have prevented her death, is where I'm less certain of my direction.  There is just so much dysfunction on so many levels.

My fellow EM colleague and I  have carved out a bit of physical order in the ED chaos by establishing ourselves in room 9 and 8. The resuscitation bay and step-down ward respectively.  In these two rooms, we can care for up to 14 patients. It is here where we spend the majority of our clinical time. In this space, we have better control of medications, of equipment, of teachable moments and of care delivery.
Room 9 


Room 8 Whiteboard Plans

Having this space makes me feel less lost.





The first 3 modules of the basic emergency medicine training course are now complete. The lectures, simulation sessions, module exams, bedside teaching and shared patient care have all been very absorbing and positive.  When I step back and look in, I see a difference from even 6 weeks ago. It is a small difference, but the care provided in room 9, by both residents and nurses, is obviously more confident and competent.

There is great distance to travel, but the general direction seems clear.  It is an exciting journey.

Thanks for reading.

Sunday, 17 November 2013

Prisoners Wear Pink

At least the prisoners on the hospital ward do.

I learnt this on my first morning at Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Kigali (CHUK). More specifically, I learned that the pink is for those convicted and the orange suits are for those that are accused.  The pink was beautiful in the early morning sunlight.  The irony is obvious.

This first full week in Kigali has been full of learning actually!

I'm learning that looking for a home to rent allows one to see many Mobutesque mansions,  cookie-cutter housing estates, and homes of faded elegance that are slowly succumbing to the inevitable creep of the untended jungle vine.  I also know that the Realtors seem to have prior knowledge of my housing allowance and enjoy pushing that envelope!  The search continues for the ideal family home....

I have learned that having people on the ground who have been doing this job for a year are a fabulous resource.  Joe, who is the emergency physician that I am replacing, hails from New York and has been here for one year with his wife, Julia.  She is also with the HRH program in critical care and anesthesia http://hrhconsortium.moh.gov.rw/.  They have become good friends whom have helped me navigate, literally and figuratively, through the Kigali streets, CHUK politics, Rwandan mannerism and finding the best place for Thai food Kigali.  I will miss them when they leave this week.

They have also sold me their  well-loved vehicle - a 2002 Toyota Forerunner Surf edition with a Turbo diesel engine and a chassis that will get us to some amazing places in Rwanda over the coming months.

I'm loving driving it and know that the girls will dig it too.

 Joe & Julia's tutelage has spread to even showing me some local single track - well, the "singletrack" are actually the paths where villagers conduct their lives of subsistence-agriculture.

 Despite people herding cows and goats, carrying firewood, harvesting bananas, pushing cans of cooking oil, peddling fruit and vegetables, caring for their younger siblings, and hoeing, planting and clearing their land, everyone had a happy greeting of "maramutse," or "good morning," for us as we rode by on our fancy velos with unimaginable recreation time!

Gracious, accepting, resigned and resilient are these folk.

I've learned that I'm not yet ready to describe the CHUK ED.

  At least in so far as the caseload, the M&M and the stark realities of what can and can't be done for the many young patients who present  with serious, and largely preventable, trauma or infectious disease.  More to come on that in a future post(s)...

The residents of the inaugural CHUK Emergency Medicine Residency Training Program are engaged to learn and they are what this HRH effort is all about.  It is exciting to be here now, with the development of EM in Rwanda in it's mere infancy.  The frustrations, challenges, and opportunities loom large. Their solutions and systems will hopefully be learned in the times ahead....

Forward with enthusiasm, tempered-optimism and well-placed determination!

A few other things I have (re)learned this week are that Ryszard Kapuscinski is a fantastic writer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Shadow_of_the_Sun),
that you can't always trust what you read (even if it tastes good)
On every table at the CHUK Cafeteria
and that having a sense of humour and humility is essential.

Life is rich.

I hope that all goes well with you all.

Thanks for reading.





Saturday, 9 November 2013

That's what the signs say, "watch out for pythons and puff-adders while hiking on Table Mountain."

Watch out I did!  I would rather deal with the potential bear than get envenomated by a puff adder.  Such thoughts of fangs and paralysis were invading my head as I stuck my hands onto warm rocks on the short blocky sections of the India Variant ascent (link). Serpentine fears continued while walking by the geraniums and the uniquly indiginous protea plants
high above the southern Atlantic ocean on a splendid Cape Town Saturday morning.  Every rustle of the wind and lizard had me hyper-alert.

Somewhere on the ascent, I began to think that the python hiking fear would be a decent entry into the blogging world. I have been meaning to start a blog for a while, but I have always stalled at the last minute, losing the story into "why would I write about what I am doing" sands of time...

I almost started this "moving to Kigali" blog a few weeks ago when the concept that I WAS MOVING MY FAMILY TO KIGALI finally hit me hard in the face - an abstract plan had changed to cement-heavy reality.  All this happened while I was quietly drooling saliva down my chin and wincing with bilateral arm pain riding home from the RCMP.  Why was this?!

I dislike going to the dentist. So much so that I refused to schedule the recommended three visits for overdue dental work and insisted that the dentist anaesthetize every nerve in my face and do all of the work on a single visit. She complied and I rolled out of the office with a non-functioning tongue,  a completely numb face and a continuous stream of saliva down my chin.  Next stop was vaccinations. Getting shots in the arms is the next thing I dislike after dental work. Getting shots at a for-profit Travel Clinic where they not only charge you too much money, but also instil fear about bugs, worms, fleas, sun, sand, water, food, jet-lag, blood-clots, yeast infections, bare feet, and counterfeit medications into even the seasoned traveller, is particularly annoying.   Alas, trying to get the doctor to understand my schistosomiasis questions with a non-functional tongue and a copious stream of drool was for naught.  Regardless, some vaccinations save lives and I couldn't get out of there without at least 4 of them.... The North Van RCMP for a criminal record check, required by the Rwandan medical board, was next. At least better than going to the dentist or getting shots - so I thought... The clerk couldn't understand what I was asking and what I was saying  - To be fair, try saying "I'm moving to Kigali and need a criminal record check for the Rwandan Medical Board" while drooling with a hot potato in your mouth, and you will get the idea what I sounded like.  Just when she was about to have me escorted over to the next door LGH emergency department for assessment, she understood and gave me the paperwork.

Anyways, that was another story... Today's story is one of a fantastic outing on Table Mountain, with no puff adder sightings, and a great end to week in Cape Town for the exciting and inspirational EMSSA and AFEM Consensus Conference www.afem.info.  It is also a story of embracing fears - dental work, vaccinations,  and even pythons, all just need to be faced with "grace in your heart and flowers (metaphysical ones) in your hair."  Thank you Mumford https://itunes.apple.com/ca/album/after-the-storm/id354072886?i=354073280

Back to Kigali tomorrow to settle in and get to work. The girls are still in NV until Christmas. I miss them.  I guess it is time to face not so much fears, but to deal with some healthy intrepidation about the exciting work ahead. That too will be another story!
Thanks for reading.